Iceland - Day 8

Bosnar to Skogar

15.6 miles

It's almost embarrassing to admit that I woke at 2.30 am.

Am I eager? Definitely

Excited? Absolutely

Scared? Oh You Bet

But that has never stopped me from trying!

I popped out of my tent thinking: "I'll be trekking across two glaciers in Iceland, YEAY" and "I'll be doing it alone, HMMM." It's funny how the mind can play tricks on you: Can you? Should you? What if? I got so annoyed with myself that I actually lectured myself out loud. After quickly packing up, I did something I usually don't do on my walks: have breakfast before leaving. I usually aim for 1 hour or 3 miles with a view, so it feels like an accomplishment and reward. Today was different. I knew the trek would be hard and tricky, so I sat there with my bag packed and ate as much as I could. Today was not my norm, so I followed the advice and checked in with the local emergency services. I gave them my GPS location and planned to do it on a regular basis. Just in case.

I set off officially at 4 am. with the sky looking clear, bright, and gorgeous. I had all my gear on, Garmin GPS on full charge and even a head torch for God knows what. The first km was an easy trek across the massive campsite. What followed was anything but. A waymark numbered 470 signalled the first step from ground zero.

The steps were not that bad, but the views with each became more and more amazing. Before I knew it, the steps disappeared and were replaced by a narrow path hugging the side of the mountain. I don't have vertigo, but my God was the drop steep. I was not multitasking today: I simply looked where I steeped, and when I wanted to look around, I stopped somewhere safe and looked. After climbing for about 30 minutes, views of Porsmork and the area opened up. It had almost a Machu Pichu feel to it. I was boiling at this point, so the jacket and gloves came off, but the fleece and hat stayed on.

After a lot more climbing and even more pictures, I got to the top of the first section and was met with 3 tents in the middle of the path. I have to give them points for the perfect spot. Views of Porsmork on one side and the glacier on the other. Less than 20 metres away, I got to 'The Edge'. I knew it was coming but didn't expect it so soon. Let me tell you: my breathing changed, my concentration sharpened, my adrenaline levels spiked, and my speed dropped to almost a minus figure. I didn't look anywhere, I didn't think of anything but my next step. I carefully placed each foot while having a death grip on any available surface. Pictures were only taken after. I found a drone footage of it that might cause nightmares:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BHyJLmVBCZ3/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

As I found out later, this was not the hardest part.

The section after was just a gentle stroll that made me question my worries. I was proven wrong quite quickly. Climbing a steep mountain sort of sideways was a sweaty affair but not that challenging. Once at the top, the view of Porsmork and both glaciers were stunning. I really wanted to stay and marvel, but there was a chill to the air that wasn't pleasant with a sweaty back. My merino wool baselayer was absolutely amazing, but the jacket and gloves had to come back on. The path that followed was as flat as a chopping board, and even from a distance, it looked like someone simply chopped the top off.

I can barely describe the next and scariest sections of this trail. My heart dropped to my toes just from looking at it. I've done Via Ferrata before with a safety harness, but this would have been extreme even for them. The path was about 20 cm wide (less than a foot), the drop was simply insane and the only thing to help you was a chain to hold onto. I secured everything, let my poles dangle from one wrist, and very carefully started moving. My grip on the chain was shaking a bit, my legs felt like rubber, and my breathing would have made a sniper proud. It was about 20 metres, but it felt like 20 miles. Going across wasn't enough, I also had to climb up using the chains. I didn't take a breath until I was 5 meters clear of it. Dear God, hopefully never again.

Of course, this was not all, I now had to climb a ridiculously steep mountain with loose pebbles as icing. 20 steps ahead, 20 seconds break, 10 pictures, and repeat. I was surprised and impressed with myself when I got to the top in 30 minutes. I was at the highest point, and I couldn't get enough of the view. The forecast, according to the warden, was sunny until 10 am, followed by some cloud cover. It was 7.30 am. Glaciers on both sides, the lush green mountains of Porsmork down below, and me doing a weird happy dance in the middle. It was a really joyful moment.

It was clear and sunny, but even the gentle breeze went through my bones. I totally understand why on a bad day this is labelled impassable. It's demanding on the best of days but add wind, rain or snow to it and it becomes a struggle for survival. I carried on until I got to a crossroads that didn't make sense at first. My Garmin told me to go the long way rather than simply across and boy oh boy was I happy that I followed. It took me right through Magni and Mooi, the newly formed craters from the 2010 eruption. It was surreal walking through newly formed lava, and knowing there is still some activity below (but safe). After 2000 pictures, 200 videos, and a lot of grinning later, I set off to walk what the locals call 'waves'. The name of this trail is Fimmvörðuháls which means "The five cairns." There are now a few more, but luckily, I only needed to cross 4 of them.

I remember crossing the last one and seeing the sea for the first time in 7 days, AHH, what a view and what a feeling. I also noticed that the first hut was up on a high mountain while the second was just straight ahead. My dilemma was the following: if I went ahead, I would miss a few waterfalls, but if I chose to go up, I would get all of them. Even though I'd just climbed a freaking mountain, I chose the 2nd door and started climbing. At 9 a.m., I arrived at the hut with amazing views everywhere but windy as hell. After paying the service fee, I was allowed to use the facilities and try to warm up. The hut was cosy and warm, but the toilet facilities were scary. A metal triangle for peeing and another for the rest. Hmmmm, I used it once and hopefully never again. After a quick lunch, I filled up my bottle with melted snow and started going downhill.

What I didn't expect were streams that had to be forded or more climbs. I think I was tired as I grumbled a bit, and even my usually enthusiastic 'PING' game was lacking the usual. Finding the waymarkers proved a bit difficult, but the general direction was down and clear of cliffs. At one point, I was supposed to cross a snow bridge, but I noticed way too many cracks and holes, so I went a bit downhill and crossed the stream instead.

This section of the trail is also known as the 'Waterfall Trail' with 23 waterfalls. There was a combination of all kinds: high, wide, strong, and trickly. I was feeling the distance and time, and my feet were throbbing like crazy monkeys on drums. I had to have my usual foot breaks every few hours but couldn't stay long due to the wind chill. I knew I was getting close to civilisation when I spotted people with daypacks. I thought that meant I was really close. I couldn't have been more wrong. 7.5 km still to go. All I could think was OUCH. That's when some amazing waterfalls popped up. After the first 10, I stopped staring for long and just carried on.

I arrived at Skogarfoss (Skogar's waterfall) at 3.20 pm. When I first came to the UK, there was a poster on my wall of a massive waterfall and a lone human with the 'Serenity prayer ' on the side. Being able to stand next to this waterfall was just surreal and oh so very amazing. This meant the end of my first trek of 142 km / 90.6 miles from Rjúpnavellir to Skogar through the Icelandic Highlands. What a great achievement, I'm proud of myself for never even thinking of giving up and taking the time to enjoy the scenery at my own pace. What an experience.

I do feel drained, so I've decided to have a rest day or two in Grundarfjordur, on the Snaefellsness Peninsula. I got very lucky as I was able to catch the bus from Skogar to get me to Selfoss, where I could camp and catch the earliest bus to my next destination tomorrow. I can't tell you the speed it took to set up my tent and how long I stayed in the shower. I must have looked like a prune, but it was glorious. I actually felt human again. I was absolutely famished as my lunch at 9 am was almost 10 hours ago. I wasn't choosy and went straight into the campsite's restaurant and ordered the first thing on the menu: lasagna with garlic bread. My moan must have been heard in the next town, and I honestly didn't care. It was a shock to realise how cold and windy it was down here. I went to bed early with my earplugs and passed out cold within seconds.