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West Highland Way - Day 3

  • Writer: Suzy
    Suzy
  • Aug 15, 2020
  • 4 min read

Updated: May 28, 2023

Rowardennan to Inverarnan - 15.1 miles

I woke up several times during the night to the sound of crazy people partying on the other side of the loch. It was not pleasant but after the day I had falling back asleep was no hardship. In the morning I may have broken a couple of world records while using the 'facilities' before sunrise .... the bloody buggers were trying to drill a few holes and drain 99% of my blood in 3 seconds flat, they were seriously vicious. Well, I had a different kind of souvenir from this trip that is for sure. I got up early as I knew I had to pack up and walk for half an hour each way to leave my heavier stuff at the drop-off location for my luggage transfer company. It was a pleasant walk but it’s quite annoying when you have to sacrifice an hour and almost 3 miles before you officially even start your walk Before I set off, I remembered someone saying that this section would be the hardest .... I was not sure what to expect as my map showed mainly loch walking. It took me exactly 10 minutes to get his meaning .... a very rocky and gravelly path with a lot of ups and downs ... they were not steep, but they didn't have to be. I was incredibly lucky that it was a dry day otherwise it would have been a different kind of challenge. On my way I met a group of three lovely walkers and as it turned out one of them became my, on and off, walking, and wild camping companion for the rest of the trip. Say hello to Camila. It was quite nice walking past fellow wild campers still hiding from the midges and hoping for a less hostile morning.... silly people. The path kept changing from forest walk to rocky lakeside walk and true to my usual self I was bouncing, taking pictures a mile a minute and simply enjoying the silence and beauty of both. My first break was, please look shocked, due to hunger… I could have eaten tree bark but luckily, I had a nice sandwich and an energy bar. It was during this time that my mom rang to check up on me and ensure I haven’t been abducted or eaten by any miniature blood-sucking monsters. The phone was passed around my family but somehow, they always ended up asking the same question: “Are you walking alone?”. I haven't met many people, apart from the ones I met on these trips, that would understand the beauty of being a solo traveller and how your own company and thoughts can actually be relaxing and exciting at the same time. I find it a bit entertaining that most people think being alone in a well-walked path is more dangerous than walking amongst thousands of people, surrounded by cars and buildings. You may have guessed by now that I am a bit of a hippy loner :) but I would hate to be called ‘normal’ .... that would just be rude 😊. Without any further incidents I managed to reach Inversnaid and the beautiful waterfall. It was a bit too much civilisation for me though: hotel, restaurant (both closed due to Covid) and a ferry point transporting locals and tourists to the other side. It was almost weird sitting on a bench and having a small meal but for me, this wasn't as enjoyable as sitting on the ground in the middle of nowhere. After a short photoshoot, I set off knowing the next section would be a bit trickier and harsher .... it didn't disappoint but you know what ... it was still worth it. At one point I was asked by a walker where Rob Roy's cave was and before I even uttered my third word Miss Speedy has already zoomed passed me. As luck had it, it was only around the corner, and I thought "Why the hell not" .... hmmm .... well, nothing is that easy now, is it? You needed the agility of a monkey and the balance of a ballerina to get close to it; about halfway in I turned around due to safety reasons, but I did notice Miss Speedy's backpack, so I assumed she was braver, or crazier than me .... the third option was a ballerina, but I didn't stick around to ask. The sun was out, and I kept getting glimpses of the end of Loch Lomond when I stumbled on to the happy trio again, so I did something I'm really not good at .... socialise. After a few blister stories and feet-cooling ideas, we set off together, but I was soon left behind as my aim wasn't the next campsite but the next view. And what a view it was: loch, mountains, and few Wee But and Ben (small Scottish house) .... absolutely stunning. After a lengthy photoshoot, I carried on and got lucky with more pretty views and an easy trail .... I even managed to catch up with my happy trio just before the campsite. It's difficult to explain the knowledge that a hot shower is only minutes away when most people take it for granted ..... it's beyond words. Priorities were simple: tent, shower, and food. Camila decided to stay but the two lads wanted to attack another few miles .... after a few pints of course. I still remember the first time I saw the 'midge head net' comment on a forum and how everyone kept insisting on the importance of one ..... WOW, they were not exaggerating. Whenever I noticed someone without it I thought "What and idiot and how can he/she take it?" .... the midges were brutal. As much as we wanted to have a glass of wine / hot chocolate with the sunset there was no way, sci-fi movies included, how it would have been possible and so we moved inside. You will never guess who was inside? Miss Speedy herself .... meet the one and only Sarah 😊 Miss Possibly a bit Crazier than me. It was the longest night of my trip and one of the nicest; it was amazing to talk to people who not only understood but shared the solo traveller ethos ...... AHHH moment



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